An evening in Tree Town, from the food to the walk out
Come in from Soi Buakhao at six, when the stalls at the edge of the courtyard have just lit their grills and the bars around it are still setting out stools. Tree Town is a market first: a courtyard of small open bars, food stalls on two sides, a pool table at most bars, and the sky above it, which in the cool months is the point and in April is the problem. At six you can hear yourself. By eight there are a dozen speakers going, each bar with its own, and the courtyard is a single noise with Rock Station's band underneath it from the back.
Eat first. The stalls do the Isaan food the staff eat, grilled chicken and som tam and sticky rice, and the bars are happy for you to bring a plate to a stool. Palm Beach Bar, the best-rated inside by Google, is the one with the most regulars and the pool table with a game already on. Emma's and 99 Bar 2 are the small ones with an owner behind the counter who has been there since before the trees were planted. French Kiss is the one with the name that tells you which kind of bar it is, and it is friendly about it.
Rock Station is the reason to stay past eight: a proper band in a bar the size of a living room, loud, tight, and the only live music inside the courtyard. It fills by nine. The rest of Tree Town is at its best from six to nine, and by ten the crowd that came for the food has gone and the crowd that came for the stools has arrived. That is the moment to walk out: east along Soi Buakhao, into LK Metro, sixty seconds, and out under the Las Vegas sign, where the band is on and the hall is at twenty degrees.
What Tree Town is, and what it is not
It is a beer bar complex that grew a market, or a market that grew bars, and nobody remembers which came first. It is open to the sky, which makes it the best-value evening in the city from November to February and a sweat from March to May. It is cheerful, in the way a courtyard with a dozen small bars competing for you is cheerful: the staff sit out front, the pool tables are the bait, and a person alone will have a conversation within a minute whether they wanted one or not.
It is not a place for a band, except Rock Station. It is not a place for a quiet drink, after seven. It is not, despite what the map suggests, a place with a roof, and this matters more than any other fact about it in the hot season. And it is not a complex you spend the whole night in, because the crowd it is built for leaves at nine and the second crowd is thinner and later.
The four bars on the street outside, which the list above ranks separately, are the ones to know if the courtyard is too much: Beer Hubb's Soi Buakhao branch for a beer list, Trench Town's second room for reggae, Matador for a guitarist and a back room with air-conditioning, and the rest of the street either side. All of them are within a hundred metres of the gate.
We are five minutes from Tree Town on foot and we send people there every night for the food. They come back to us for the band, because a courtyard with a dozen speakers and a hall with one stage are two different evenings, and the second one starts at nine. The route is at the bottom of this page. The order is eat there, sit here.