The night, from the counter
New Year's Eve is the one night a year the hall's shape becomes a problem. Everybody wants to be inside at midnight and everybody wants to see the fireworks, and the fireworks are over the bay, two kilometres away, on the other side of a steel roof. So the hall does what it does every year: it empties towards the beach from about half past eleven, and it fills back up from about half past twelve, and the band, who have seen this, play the second set to a full room and the third to a fuller one.
The counter sees the tide go out and come back. At eleven there is nowhere to stand. At ten to midnight the stools are free and Save is doing the countdown with the four people who decided a band beats a firework. At one the hall is louder than it has been all year, because the people coming back from the beach have had their midnight and now want their night, and the late set on New Year's Eve runs past two.
We do not do a ticket, a package, a set menu or a minimum on the night, because the law does not allow us to advertise one and because we would not anyway. The bar opens at six, the band is on at nine, and the seat is yours if you are in it. That is the same deal as any Tuesday. The only difference is that on any Tuesday there would be seats.
Two ways to do it, and the one we would choose
The first is the beach. Walking Street and Beach Road are one crowd from about ten, the countdown is at Bali Hai pier at the south end, and the fireworks go up over the bay from there. It is a good spectacle and a bad walk home: a hundred thousand people leaving the same strip at ten past midnight, no baht bus willing to stop, and the road north jammed to Central until two. If you do this, walk. Soi Diana is about twenty-five minutes from the pier on foot, and the walk is the only part of the night with any air in it.
The second is to stay. Take a stage-side table at seven, eat, watch the room fill and then thin, and be at the counter at midnight with the band counting down instead of a pier. You will not see the fireworks, though on a still night you can hear them through the roof. What you get instead is the hour after, which on New Year's Eve is the best hour of the year in the hall and the one nobody who went to the beach is back in time for.
We would do the second, and most of the regulars do. If you want both, the trick is a table held by a group message earlier in the week, the beach at eleven, and a walk back that has you at the gate by one. May will have kept your table if you told her. She has kept tables through midnight on this night for people who did not come back, and she remembers who they were.